Red Rocks

I'm just finishing up ten amazing days in Red Rocks. On my first day I climbed at Cannibal Crag with Roxy. We got on a bunch of climbs, but the highlight of my day was redpointing this really cool arete Caustic (5.11b). Later that night my buddy Ryan flew in from Bellingham for a few days so I went and picked him up at the airport.

Caustic (5.11b). The line goes up the arete in the middle of the pic

The next day we did some cragging at the Sunny and Steep wall and the Yin and Yang wall. At the first crag we got on a few great climbs. The first was Mr. Choads Wild Ride (5.11b). I led this and took one fall, but I think that it was one of the coolest climbs I did in Red Rocks. From here Jessee and I worked Steep Thrills (5.12a). We both took a bunch of falls, but it was fun getting worked.

Steep Thrills

At the Yin and Yang wall I led a few climbs. The first was Atman (5.10a). It was a perfect number 1 crack. It wasn't too hard after a couple weeks at the creek. The next climb was Yin and Yang (5.11a). This was such a cool climb. The crack does a giant C on the wall. I took one fall and finished it out. Really fun.

Me on Yin & Yang (5.11a) with Atman in the background

The next day we decided to get on Solar Slab 5.6 1500ft. Roxy and Ryan led the whole thing and I just came along for the ride. It was a great climb and before we knew it we were doing the last rappell in the dark. Lucky for us we met some really nice guys who actually brought headlamps, oops, and they helped us get back to the car.

Roxy leading a pitch on Super Slab

After our long day we decided it was time for a rest day and went to lake Mead for some swimming. Turns out lake Mead is absolutely disgusting and the beach was a combination of rocks, mussles and silt. We were there for only a short while before we left to find a park to hang out in. When we got back to the campground we spent the rest of our evening getting ready for our climb the next day.

The next morning Ryan, Roxy and I were up at 4:30 in the morning to climb Epinephrin 5.9 2240ft. This is one of the classic climbs in Red Rocks. It is well known for its three pitches of chimney climbing, but it turns out that the rest of the route is incredible as well. The climb is 12 pitches of belayed climbing with several hundred feet of scrambling at the top. Definitely one of the most enjoyable long climbs I have ever done. We finished the climb in 11.5 hours and it took us around 14 hours car to car. Another long day but well worth it.

Ryan on the approach to Epinephrin. The route goes to the top of the peak on the left.

Looking down towards the second chimney pitch

The elephant trunk somewhere way up the route

After our long day Ryan and I felt like taking it easy, for the most part. All I wanted to do was get on Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a). Turns out it was a little harder than I thought it would be. After flailing, yelling and bleeding I eventually gave in and aided through the roof. I was disappointed and exhausted by the time that we finally left. At this point we wanted to get the heck out of red rocks and went to the closest cookie cutter housing development and found a cool park to hang out in for the rest of the afternoon until it was time to pick Miles up from the airport.

Risk Brother's Roof

The next morning I had to drop Ryan off at the airport in the morning. It was great having him along for a few days, he'll be missed. After we dropped him off we raced back to red rocks so that Miles could do his first climbing there. We ended up spending the rest of the day at the Sweet Pain wall. We all led Glitter Gulch (5.11a). Then Miles faught his way up Sweet Pain (5.11d).

Roxy leading Glitter Gulch (5.11a)

That night Miles and I decided that we were going to try and climb Cloud Tower 5.11d 800ft. We racked up and hit the hay early. The next morning we were up at 5 and at the gate for the park when they opened at 6. We did the approach in a little over an hour and were racked up and ready to go in no time. Miles led the first two 5.8 pitches. I took over from here and led a 10a pitch to the base of the 11d crux pitch. Once on the pitch I quickly realized that I didn't have the right gear. The book didn't say that we needed a bunch of tcus (really small cams) so I didn't bring any. Turns out that I didn't have any gear to protect the entire crack. Miles lowered me off an old bolt and we rapped back to the ground all because I didn't bring a few small pieces. A really stupid and easily avoided mistake.

The crux pitch on Cloud Tower

We decided that we would come back the next day and redeem ourselves. Now that we were loaded with tcus we were confident that cloud tower would be ours. In no time we were at the base of the climb and ready to go. We quickly got up to the crux pitch, which I ended up french freeing. From here I led a 10c that was incredible. It started out with a perfect hand crack that went through a roof and into another perfect hand crack. After a little ways I came over a bulge and just about died when I looked up. A perfect #4 fist crack for 30 or so feet. I only had one number 4 cam, thanks a lot guide book, so I had to slide that cam up with me for the entire way. After this pitch I led a 10c chimney that traversed behind a tower and through a hole onto the other side. At this point all we had left was an 11c handcrack leading to the top. I took off on this and made it most of the way before I fell. After several more falls I was finally on top. I belayed Miles up and enjoyed the excessive grunting and screaming as he came up the pitch. Once on top we made 6 rappels to get down to solid ground. Excited about our climb we rushed back to the campground and made a big dinner to celebrate.

Red Rocks in the morning
Miles coming through the hole from behind the tower
Miles following the last pitch on cloud tower (5.11c) & trying really hard
A little further up

Miles about the pull the crux move

On our last day we decided that we would do some more sport cragging. I started out the day by onsighting Running Amuk (5.10c). Then I got on Yaak Crack (5.11c). I took a bunch of falls on my first attempt, but only one on my second. Happy with the progress we decided to move on the the Black Corridor where we would be in the shade. The first climb we got on there was Crude Boys (5.10d). I led this incredibly thin climb and took a bunch of falls at the finger destroying crimpy crux. Miles then led it and sent it clean first try. After making it through this I wasn't sure if I wanted to get on anything else, but I couldn't help but get lured in by the proud looking line at the end of the corridor. The climb was Rebel Without a Pause (5.11b) and with a description and said bouldery moves I was stoked to get on it. Turns out it was an awesome climb and I was able to send it clean first try.

Miles on Yaak Crack (5.11c)

Rebel Without a Pause (5.11b). It's the route all the way in the back.

After our last day of climbing we decided that a legit feast was in order. We went to the store and loaded up on supplies. We ended up making steak over the fire with pototoes, asparagus and garlic bread. By far the best meal that we've had yet. We spent the rest of the evening just hanging around the fire and enjoying Roxy's company for the last time for a while.

Today we said our goodbyes and now Miles and I are heading to Joshua Tree for more amazing climbing. With a forcast that is only in the 70s and low 80s I'm really excited to get there. Stay tuned for more updates and as always check out Miles Website for pics.