Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Ice Cliff Glacier to Girth Pillar

A few weeks ago I climbed the Girth Pillar with Braden. It was the most committing climb that I have done in the mountains to date. We encountered everything from steep snow and ice to iced up 5.11 cracks. It was a climb that I wont forget any time soon. I would say that this is a route that shouldn't be underestimated. We found the climbing to be pretty darn hard especially given the mixed conditions. I imagine that it would be easier if the route was totally dry. The only problem is that the ice cliff isn't as safe. I read about some people rapping in from the North Ridge, but I don't know anything about that beta. Here are a some pictures from the climb.

Our morning visitors
The girth pillar goes up just to the right of the rock scar above the ice fall


Braden heading up to the left of the ice fall

Heading towards the girth pillar above the bruschrund


Braden following one of the "approach" pitches

Looking up the first hard crack pitch.


A few pitches up the headwall you have the option to go left into the rock scar at a white sling or to go straight up the crack. Go STRIGHT UP. If you go left you get this unprotected OW. Nice lead Braden.

Looking down the OW

Braden getting closer to the top


The view from the top of the route

The summit was oh so close. We opted to pass given that it was getting dark.

Looking down the final snow field