Red Rocks

I'm just finishing up ten amazing days in Red Rocks. On my first day I climbed at Cannibal Crag with Roxy. We got on a bunch of climbs, but the highlight of my day was redpointing this really cool arete Caustic (5.11b). Later that night my buddy Ryan flew in from Bellingham for a few days so I went and picked him up at the airport.

Caustic (5.11b). The line goes up the arete in the middle of the pic

The next day we did some cragging at the Sunny and Steep wall and the Yin and Yang wall. At the first crag we got on a few great climbs. The first was Mr. Choads Wild Ride (5.11b). I led this and took one fall, but I think that it was one of the coolest climbs I did in Red Rocks. From here Jessee and I worked Steep Thrills (5.12a). We both took a bunch of falls, but it was fun getting worked.

Steep Thrills

At the Yin and Yang wall I led a few climbs. The first was Atman (5.10a). It was a perfect number 1 crack. It wasn't too hard after a couple weeks at the creek. The next climb was Yin and Yang (5.11a). This was such a cool climb. The crack does a giant C on the wall. I took one fall and finished it out. Really fun.

Me on Yin & Yang (5.11a) with Atman in the background

The next day we decided to get on Solar Slab 5.6 1500ft. Roxy and Ryan led the whole thing and I just came along for the ride. It was a great climb and before we knew it we were doing the last rappell in the dark. Lucky for us we met some really nice guys who actually brought headlamps, oops, and they helped us get back to the car.

Roxy leading a pitch on Super Slab

After our long day we decided it was time for a rest day and went to lake Mead for some swimming. Turns out lake Mead is absolutely disgusting and the beach was a combination of rocks, mussles and silt. We were there for only a short while before we left to find a park to hang out in. When we got back to the campground we spent the rest of our evening getting ready for our climb the next day.

The next morning Ryan, Roxy and I were up at 4:30 in the morning to climb Epinephrin 5.9 2240ft. This is one of the classic climbs in Red Rocks. It is well known for its three pitches of chimney climbing, but it turns out that the rest of the route is incredible as well. The climb is 12 pitches of belayed climbing with several hundred feet of scrambling at the top. Definitely one of the most enjoyable long climbs I have ever done. We finished the climb in 11.5 hours and it took us around 14 hours car to car. Another long day but well worth it.

Ryan on the approach to Epinephrin. The route goes to the top of the peak on the left.

Looking down towards the second chimney pitch

The elephant trunk somewhere way up the route

After our long day Ryan and I felt like taking it easy, for the most part. All I wanted to do was get on Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a). Turns out it was a little harder than I thought it would be. After flailing, yelling and bleeding I eventually gave in and aided through the roof. I was disappointed and exhausted by the time that we finally left. At this point we wanted to get the heck out of red rocks and went to the closest cookie cutter housing development and found a cool park to hang out in for the rest of the afternoon until it was time to pick Miles up from the airport.

Risk Brother's Roof

The next morning I had to drop Ryan off at the airport in the morning. It was great having him along for a few days, he'll be missed. After we dropped him off we raced back to red rocks so that Miles could do his first climbing there. We ended up spending the rest of the day at the Sweet Pain wall. We all led Glitter Gulch (5.11a). Then Miles faught his way up Sweet Pain (5.11d).

Roxy leading Glitter Gulch (5.11a)

That night Miles and I decided that we were going to try and climb Cloud Tower 5.11d 800ft. We racked up and hit the hay early. The next morning we were up at 5 and at the gate for the park when they opened at 6. We did the approach in a little over an hour and were racked up and ready to go in no time. Miles led the first two 5.8 pitches. I took over from here and led a 10a pitch to the base of the 11d crux pitch. Once on the pitch I quickly realized that I didn't have the right gear. The book didn't say that we needed a bunch of tcus (really small cams) so I didn't bring any. Turns out that I didn't have any gear to protect the entire crack. Miles lowered me off an old bolt and we rapped back to the ground all because I didn't bring a few small pieces. A really stupid and easily avoided mistake.

The crux pitch on Cloud Tower

We decided that we would come back the next day and redeem ourselves. Now that we were loaded with tcus we were confident that cloud tower would be ours. In no time we were at the base of the climb and ready to go. We quickly got up to the crux pitch, which I ended up french freeing. From here I led a 10c that was incredible. It started out with a perfect hand crack that went through a roof and into another perfect hand crack. After a little ways I came over a bulge and just about died when I looked up. A perfect #4 fist crack for 30 or so feet. I only had one number 4 cam, thanks a lot guide book, so I had to slide that cam up with me for the entire way. After this pitch I led a 10c chimney that traversed behind a tower and through a hole onto the other side. At this point all we had left was an 11c handcrack leading to the top. I took off on this and made it most of the way before I fell. After several more falls I was finally on top. I belayed Miles up and enjoyed the excessive grunting and screaming as he came up the pitch. Once on top we made 6 rappels to get down to solid ground. Excited about our climb we rushed back to the campground and made a big dinner to celebrate.

Red Rocks in the morning
Miles coming through the hole from behind the tower
Miles following the last pitch on cloud tower (5.11c) & trying really hard
A little further up

Miles about the pull the crux move

On our last day we decided that we would do some more sport cragging. I started out the day by onsighting Running Amuk (5.10c). Then I got on Yaak Crack (5.11c). I took a bunch of falls on my first attempt, but only one on my second. Happy with the progress we decided to move on the the Black Corridor where we would be in the shade. The first climb we got on there was Crude Boys (5.10d). I led this incredibly thin climb and took a bunch of falls at the finger destroying crimpy crux. Miles then led it and sent it clean first try. After making it through this I wasn't sure if I wanted to get on anything else, but I couldn't help but get lured in by the proud looking line at the end of the corridor. The climb was Rebel Without a Pause (5.11b) and with a description and said bouldery moves I was stoked to get on it. Turns out it was an awesome climb and I was able to send it clean first try.

Miles on Yaak Crack (5.11c)

Rebel Without a Pause (5.11b). It's the route all the way in the back.

After our last day of climbing we decided that a legit feast was in order. We went to the store and loaded up on supplies. We ended up making steak over the fire with pototoes, asparagus and garlic bread. By far the best meal that we've had yet. We spent the rest of the evening just hanging around the fire and enjoying Roxy's company for the last time for a while.

Today we said our goodbyes and now Miles and I are heading to Joshua Tree for more amazing climbing. With a forcast that is only in the 70s and low 80s I'm really excited to get there. Stay tuned for more updates and as always check out Miles Website for pics.

Zion & Moonlight Buttress

It's official. Miles and I climbed Moonlight Buttress. It turned out to be an epic two day event. The first day we climbed with a guy named Brenden that we met at the climbing shop. We showed up at around 8PM on Easter Sunday and figured there would be no way that they'd be open and we were right. Except that there was a dude just hanging out in the shop. He let us in and we started talking about our plans. Before long the three of us agreed to climb the buttress. He also didn't have much aid climbing experience, but we figured that the three of us could figure it out. We spent the rest of the evening eating dinner, turbo reading John Long's Big Wall book and sorting gear before hitting the hay right around 12.

Moonlight Buttress (IV 5.9 C1). Route is in red

The next morning we were up at 5 and ready to do the buttress in a day. We had a few things to take care of before we left and were on the shuttle into the canyon at 7:15. The crux of our morning was figuring out how to get across the river that runs in between the road and the base of the climb. We ended up getting off the bus early so that we could cross a bridge, hopefully avoiding a crossing that would be too deep. We spent the next hour walking cross country to the base of the climb. Once there we realized that we were behind four people who had manned up and crossed the river. Now we were in a big traffic jam and we walked an hour for no reason. Oh well.

After everyone started up the route Brenden took off on the first pitch. Once on top he belayed Miles and I up to his spacious ledge. From there I led the second 5.10a pitch and fixed lines for Miles and Brenden to jug up. Miles then led the next C1 bolt ladder to the base of the real aid pitches. At this point we were caught in a traffic jam and it became real apparent that we weren't going to be able to climb it in a day. We decided to fix lines down to the ground and come back the next day to finish it up.

The next day Brenden had to work so Miles and I went back to the base of the climb alone and were ready to finish it up. We started by ascending 350' of ropes back to the top of the third pitch. Once there I geared up and took off on my first real aid pitch. It was so much fun. I didn't think that I would like aid climbing, but I really enjoyed it. It took me a couple hours to lead the pitch and once at top I fixed the lines for Miles and tried to get comfortable at the hanging belay.

Miles crossing the freezing cold river on the second morning

Looking down from the hanging belay at the top of pitch 4

Miles led the next pitch through a roof and chimney. Needless to say he struggled a little bit, but he still reached the top after a several hour battle. I jugged up the lines and was excited to lead the next pitch when Miles told me that he wanted it to redeem himself after getting his butt kicked by the chimney. I obliged since there was a ledge for me to stand on and I wouldn't be at a hanging belay.

Miles getting to the roof on pitch 5

The view of Angel's Landing from the top of pitch 5

Miles led this pitch in much better style and before long I joined him up at the belay. By now it was dark, yes we were very very slow, and I quickly took off on the next pitch. I led this pitch with only the light of my headlamp. I enjoyed every minute of it. I got to the top at 12:30AM. I fixed the lines and Miles was up right before 1.

We quickly packed up our gear, ate the rest of our cookies and took off for the RV. We ended up walking a total of 6 miles. 2.5 to get to the road and 3.5 on the road. We got the the RV just after 3AM and didn't hit the hay until 4. It ended up being a long 22hr. day. Needless to say we are not efficient aid climbers yet, but the only way to get better is to get after it and do it and we sure did that.

Now that it has been a couple of days and I've had some time to reflect on our experience I can't wait to do more big walls. It was so much fun getting that high up on a sheer rock face. I didn't want to climb El Cap until next fall, but I've changed my mind and now I'm going to do it this spring.

As of now we are going to be spending the next week or so in Red Rocks, just outside of Las Vegas. Stay tuned for more updates.

Our last week in the Creek

It has been an exciting few days. When I last left off we were taking a rest day in Moab after three days of hard climbing. After spending the day in Moab we drove back to the creek just in time for it to start snowing again. Another forced rest day was in store for Miles and I.

The next day we woke up to beautiful blue bird skies. We spent the day climbing at Cat Wall. There are so many amazing climbs there. I started out the morning by leading Trip to the Vet. Then I followed Kevin up Choke Chain, a really really hard climb. After a few goes he sent it clean. I couldn't figure out the crux, but still enjoyed it. Then Eric #2 led Dead Crow (5.11+). This beautiful 130ft. line started out with thin hands and then turned into a loose hands traverse to the chains. Amazing. I followed it clean and can't wait to go back and try to lead it.

Looking up Dead Crow. You can see the traversing crack on the roof

The following day we decided to go back to the Battle of the Bulge area. I was stoked for this since it is right by my project Dos Hermanos. I figured I could drag someone over to the climb to give me a belay. Turns out Miles was more than willing and we spent pretty much the whole day there. It took me three tries to finally get the climb. I was pretty ecstatic. It was exciting to finally send a trad line that was really hard for me. Eric #2 even filmed it. You can watch the video here. After the send we went back to the campsite and made a huge dinner. Three potatoes, an onion, a green pepper, tuna, and refried beans all mashed together with rice and put in tortillas. Delicious.

Alex leading Cave Route right before we went to Dos Hermanos

Dinner after the sendAfter sending Dos Hermanos I was ready for a change of pace for a couple days. One of the girls that we've been climbing with, Roxy, suggested that we go to Moab and do some sport climbing and take her dog to the vet. Miles and I quickly jumped on the idea and volunteered our RV for a few days. The next morning we got up early to try and make it to the vet on time. Turns out we could have slept in because 20 miles into our 60 mile journey we heard the familiar noise of rubber smacking our floor. We blew another tire. Great. The next hour was spent trying to unwrap the tread from around our axle. After failing miserably we decided to just drive the remaining 40 miles on the shoulder with the tread hanging out from under the car. Needless to say we didn't make the vet appointment. It was a bummer, but nothing that a little money couldn't fix. Once it was taken care of we didn't have time to go sport climbing so we went bouldering at the Big Bend boulders for a little bit. Once we were totally beat we headed back to Moab for all you can eat pizza.

Miles bouldering at the Big Bend boulders

The next day we decided to climb Ancient Art in Fischer Towers. I was told by a guy from Bellingham named Steve that this was a must do. Turns out he was absolutely right. Standing on top of that tower with insane winds was one of the biggest rushes I have ever had. I think that I'll just let the pictures tell the story on this one.

Ancient Art goes to the top of the corkscrew looking rock

Miles crawling across the sidewalk

Miles doing the belly flop

Miles on top

Looking back up the route

After climbing Ancient Art we went back to the creek for two more days of climbing. The first day we went to the Scarface wall and got on a couple classic climbs. The first one was Wavy Gravy (5.10-). Both Miles and I led this one. After that I led an unnamed offwidth around the corner. I had to take a few rests, but at least I got to scratch up my new #5 and #6 camalots. Then we went all the way to the other end of the wall and got on the mega classic Scarface (5.11-). I have wanted to get on this for a while especially after seeing it on the cover of my climbing Utah guidebook. It starts out with ring locks, then goes to thin hands and finishes with perfect hnads as it arches right. Incredible.

Roxy on Wavy Gravy

Miles on Scarface

Some guy leading Scarface after we finished

On our last day in the creek we went to the second meat wall and I got on as many hard climbs as we had time for. I started out the day by onsighting Tube Steaks Tomorrow (5.10+). After I climbed this I watched Kevin put up Humble Pie (5.12+), pretty amazing. Then I followed T-Bones Tonight (5.12-), this beautiful left facing corner that goes from ring locks to wide hands over a roof. From here Renee wanted to lead Top Sirloin (5.11) and while she was scoping it out she found the perfect climb for me. I should let her choose all my routes from now on. It’s called X-tra Lean (5.12-). It is a super powerful climb with several cruxes. It starts out with perfect fingers to gain a ledge. From here you climb tight fingers to a precarious mantle. At this point you layback a tips crack and throw for a jug and then throw for a sloper that you yard off of to gain a small ledge. Then you finish with easy face climbing to the anchors. I gave this two goes on lead and took a bunch of falls the first time and only one fall the second time. I was really excited to get up a climb that hard and beautiful with only one fall on lead. I can’t wait to go back some day and lead that thing.

Tube Steak Tomorrow

Kevin enjoying a slice of Humble Pie

Renee on Top Sirloin

Further up on Top Sirloin

Me on X-tra Lean

After my battle with X-tra Lean I lead Low Cholesterol (5.10). This would be my first legit offwidth. It is perfect number 5’s and 6’s all the way to the top. I groveled up this thing for what seemed like forever before I made it to the top. I don’t really know why I liked climbing it, but I kinda did. It doesn’t make much sense, but I don’t think that most people can explain why they like offwidths. Or I just haven’t met very many people that like them.

Renee on Low Cholesterol

The next morning we said our goodbyes and took a few cheesy group photos. It was sad leaving, but I think that we'll see most of them again. Either in Red Rocks or Yosemite. They are all climbing bums, just like us.

Me, Tim, Roxy, Eric & Alex

Now we are in Page, Arizona right by Lake Powell. Our plan is to leave here today and head for Zion to climb Moonlight Buttress. Both Miles and I haven’t done any aid climbing, so we might do a warm up before we get on the big guy. Either way it should be an interesting experience. Stay tuned, more to come soon. As always check out Miles' website

The Creek

I am falling in love with Indian Creek. This place is amazing. The people are amazing. The climbing is amazing. Our little posse has grown from four people to almost ten. We climb together everyday and then come back to camp and make dinner, sit around a fire and drink together. It is pretty much perfect. I don't have a ton of pictures from the last three days and the ones I do have don't do this place justice. Here's the few that I do have.

Eric about to tackle an overhanging fist crack

Me struggling up an offwidth

Eric leading Warmup Handcrack (5.10+) with Eric #2 filming. I led this earlier in the day and it was really really good.

Miles following Dos Hermonos (5.11+). I led this one and it is my new favorite climb. It goes from fingers to loose fingers to perfect hands to wide hands over the roof. I have the crux figured out and have done the roof clean twice now. Next time we go to this area I think that I'll be able to lead it without falling.

Alex going for it on Drain Pipe (5.10)

Eric leading Chocolate Corner

Petroglyphs near Indian Creek

The view from the Reservoir Wall

That's it for now. More to come in a few days. If you want to see some more pictures, all of which are better than mine, check out Miles' Website http://milesmckeephotography.smugmug.com/